Posts Tagged: chlorine

Watch the power of Saline C 6.0 – Hayward’s new Commercial Salt Chlorine Generation System

Hayward Commercial Pool is getting ready to unveil Saline C 6.0 commercial pool salt chlorine generator. This new eco-friendly, single vessel, low cost chlorine solution produces up to 6 pounds of chlorine per day. Key features include: commercial sizing 60,000 gallons outdoor, 90,000 indoor; compact design, single cell and power supply with easy install; industrial-grade, clear vessel and easy inspection; reverse polarity self-cleaning technology; plug n’ play chemical automation – works great with our CAT Controllers; simple 1 minute electrode removal; eliminates transportation, handling and storage of hazardous chlorine; reduces chloramines and associated odors/corrosion; energy efficient power supply draws just 4 to 6 amps; 40% to 60% lower cost per pound of chlorine vs. sodium and calcium hypochlorite; game-changing initial investment and cost of ownership; simple, low cost installation vs. multiple cell alternatives. Coming soon in 2013!!! Watch the video

Saline C™ 6.0

Single Vessel Commercial Salt Chlorine Generator. Hayward announces its new Commercial Salt Chlorine Generator, Saline C 6.0, NSF certified to produce up to 6 pounds of chlorine per day. Saline C 6.0’s compact design is comprised of a single clear vessel and power supply, eliminating the need for daisy chaining multiple cells.  This more-efficient, powerful design lowers installation costs and consumes less space.  Designed specifically to meet the demanding needs of commercial applications, Saline C 6.0 provides a more natural form of chlorine while reducing sanitizing costs by 40% to 60% vs. traditional chemical chlorine. Pool operators and mangers can now offer all the benefits of a salt-chlorinated pool swimming experience while lowering their costs. Saline C 6.0 is compatible with pH and ORP chemical automation systems making it the ideal water chemistry solution for any commercial body of water.  All pool operators need to do is connect the Saline C 6.0 to one of Hayward Commercial Pool’s CAT Controllers® and the system becomes a self-managing, automated solution.  Commercial operators can now take advantage of this eco-friendly, low cost salt-chlorine solution and at the same time eliminate transportation, handling and storage of hazardous chlorine. Key Saline C 6.0 features: Commercial sizing 60K gal outdoor, 90K gal indoor Compact design, single cell and power supply, easy install Industrial-grade, clear vessel, easy inspection Reverse polarity self-cleaning technology Simple 1 minute electrode removal Plug N’ Play chemical automation 40% to 60% lower cost per lb of chlorine vs. sodium and calcium hypochlorite Game-changing initial investment and cost of ownership Simple, low cost installation vs. multiple cell alternatives NSF Certified    

A lesson in chlorine purity

Did you know not all chlorine is the same?  The deal you get at a discount store might not be a deal at all.  It’s important that you know about the chlorine you use to sanitize your pool.  You might just be shocked at what you’re dumping in your water, and the money you’re wasting. Chlorine Purity Comparison  Shocking right?!  Ok, now take into account the price you pay per pound or per gallon depending on the form/s of Chlorine you use. Chlorine Equivalency A single Salt & Swim 3C Cell produces 200 lbs of 100% available chlorine which is equivalent to: From back breaker, to break taker To get the chlorine production equivalent of one tiny little Salt & Swim Salt 3C cell, which by the way only weighs 1 pound, you’ll need to lug as much as 208 gallons all the way up to 571 pounds of Chlorine.  Yikes, hope you’ve been working out! Let’s do the math, the cold hard facts Myth Buster You can afford salt chlorination – in fact, it will save you money!  Your annual chlorine production cost is less than the chlorination solution you’re using today.  No magic, no pixie dust, no additives, just 100% available chlorine automatically, now that’s convenient.  With a one-time up-front controller installation, you can let technology do all the work for you. Stop living in the past.  Join the over 1.5 million American pool owners who are enjoying all the benefits of Salt Chlorination.  You’ll be amazed at what a little salt can do for your swimming experience, and your wallet!

Closing your pool for the season

Unfortunately, we can’t all swim forever. It is extremely important that your pool is closed properly to protect the life of your pool and its equipment.  It’s always recommended to call in your local pool pro to ensure your pool is closed properly.   Find a pool pro in your area. Frost belt or cold weather climate closing steps: Adjust pH to 7.2-7.8 to prevent stains, scaling and algae growth.  Shock the pool using manufacturer’s directions. Run the filter for 24-48 hours. Remove floating debris and vacuum thoroughly. Add an algaecide to prevent algae from forming before water freezes. Follow your pool manufacturer’s directions for lowering your water level.  Only a few pools need to be completely drained during the winter.  Many pools fare cold temperatures better when partially filled with water as a buffer.  A drained pool can also crack or pop out of the ground because of pressure from ground water. Shut off filter pump and drain pump, filter heater and all other equipment.  Store to prevent freezing.  Follow manufacturer’s directions for lubrication and proper covering(s). Turn off all power to the support equipment and remove fuses or turn the circuit breakers to off. If you have a slide or diving board, take it off and store it. Cover pool securely and fill water bags halfway (the edge of the cover should be sealed so that wind does not get under it).  A quality pool cover resists water, weather and pool chemicals and keeps out leaves and airborne dust. Milder Climates Your climate may permit a longer swimming season.  However, if there are many weeks in which your pool will not be used, continue routine maintenance on a reduced schedule instead of completely closing your pool for the season. Begin by reducing filter-running time in half.  Keep pH between 7.2-7.8 and free available chlorine between 1.0 and 3.0 parts per million (use tester).  Follow pool equipment manufacturer’s instructions for proper care of equipment during this time. If you do not cover your pool, clean your skimmer every week, maintain filter according to manufacturer’s instructions and vacuum as needed. Covering your pool will keep out leaves and dirt.  Before covering, shock treat according to manufacturer’s directions.

Chemistry lesson – not just for beginners!

For pool owners with chemistry issues, understanding what’s happening can be confusing and solutions may make you feel like you need to go back to school for a degree in chemistry.  You don’t!  You just need the facts and you need to stay on top of your water chemistry. Perfect water balance is determined by pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness and Total Dissolved Solids (TDS).  For pool water to be “balanced”, all these factors must stay in their proper ranges.  Ranges may vary slightly, depending on the finish of your pool, the average water temperature during your season, bather load and yes, a ton of other factors. pH is the most important factor in balancing water.  It’s  measured on a scale from 0 to 14, with 0 being the most acidic, 7 being neutral and 14 being alkaline. pH must be maintained in a narrow window between 7.2 and 7.8 for a pool to be considered balanced.  Pure water is neutral.  It’s only when things are dissolved in it that it skews one way or the other. And here’s the thing…both high and low pH lessen the effectiveness of the chlorine that sanitizes a pool.  When pH drifts up, water becomes alkaline and creates an environment where mineral deposits (scale) can form and chlorine becomes ineffective at its primary task – killing bacteria and algae.  When pH is low, chlorine expends itself too rapidly.  The secret to controlling pH lies in controlling the alkalinity.  It acts like a ceiling over your pH, so the pH can only rise so high.  It’s important to control the alkalinity first because it makes balancing pH easier.  Alkalinity needs to stay within 80 to 120 ppm. Calcium and total dissolved solids (TDS) such as magnesium, above 300 parts-per-million (ppm), make it hard to get clear water and it compromises the effectiveness of the chemicals.  This can be commonplace, depending on your location. For example, hardness in Phoenix tap water has been seen as high as 1000ppm.  Besides tile scale, other severe warning signs of high levels of hardness include scaling on pump, filter and plumbing lines, white deposits in filter sand, white stains on decks and landscape and increasing disinfectant chemical consumption. Unfortunately, high levels of minerals like calcium and magnesium cannot be cured through normal pool maintenance.  These minerals need to be removed.  Refilling with the same water you started with is self-defeating, wastes time and water.  Some professionals recommend adding a compound that binds to these minerals, but that’s a short-term solution.  Cloudy water can reappear.  If you’re in a high mineral area, the best way to control an out-of-control calcium or magnesium situation is to have water trucked in. If you’re struggling with your water, the best thing you can do is bring a water sample to your local dealer to be tested.  Home testing kits may not give you a true picture of what is happening with your water.  While you’re there, they can also give you tips and a treatment plan

Chlorine 101

Testing your water regularly is extremely important – to keep it properly sanitized, safe and in balance.   In this article, we’ll address just chlorine – the different types, their effectiveness and how to test for them. The chlorine in your water is in two forms – free chlorine and combined chlorine.  Free chlorine, the good chlorine, is what kills bacteria and viruses and oxidizes contaminants.  When you add chlorine to your water, you’re actually adding free chlorine.  When free chlorine combines with contaminants such as bacteria, body oils, suntan lotion, etc., it becomes combined chlorine also known as chloramines.   Combined chlorine has very little sanitizing or oxidizing ability. Total chlorine is the sum of both the combined chlorine and free chlorine in the water.  Free chlorine is the total amount of chlorine available to be used as a sanitizing or oxidizing agent.  Ideally, you do not want combined chlorine.  So, in a perfectly clean pool, the total chlorine level  would be the same as the free level.  But, as a pool accumulates contaminants, combine chlorine forms such that the amount of total chlorine will be higher than the free chlorine.  Shocking  or superoxidizing the pool will help eliminate any contaminants, breakdown the combined chlorine, and get the total and free chlorine levels back in balance. Testing for chlorine There are generally three methods for testing chlorine: a handheld meter, drops or test strips.  Any method is acceptable.  But… take care to note what type of chlorine you are measuring.  Some methods measure free chlorine, some measure total chlorine and some measure both.  For example, a kit that uses red “DPD” drops will measure free chlorine whereas kits that use yellow “OTO” drops measure total chlorine. Remember, total chlorine is simply the sum of both combined chlorine and free chlorine.  The combined chlorine value should never exceed 50% of the free chlorine value and should be as close to zero as possible. Finally, to ensure a well sanitized pool you should maintain the free chlorine level in the range of 1-3ppm (2-4 ppm for spas).

Pool Water Chemistry 101

Pool and spa water chemistry along with proper filtration is the key to clean, healthy water. It doesn’t matter if you have 100 or 1,000,000 gallons of water, the same balance levels and chemical types are required—only the quantity will vary. Everything that enters the body of water affects water balance: swimmers, rain, pollution, animals and chemicals. Every pool, each season, creates its own demand for different chemicals. The pool in your neighbor’s yard, with the same system and environment may react totally different than yours. Every pool also develops a pattern each season. After observing how your pool reacts to different bather levels, rain and the environment, you will get a handle on your pools chemistry pattern and what’s required to keep the water balanced. Accepted levels for balanced pool or spa water: Pool Spa Total Alkalinity Plaster 80-120 ppm 80-120 ppm Vinyl 100-150 ppm 100-150 ppm PH 7.2-7.6 7.2-7.6 Bromine 2-4 ppm 3-5 ppm Chlorine Total 1.0-3.0 ppm 2.0-4.0 ppm Free 1.0-3.0 ppm 2.0-4.0 ppm Cyanuric Acid 30-100 ppm 30-100 ppm Calcium Hardness Plaster 200-400 ppm 200-400 ppm Vinyl 175-300 ppm 175-300 ppm TDS < 2000 ppm < 2000 ppm Copper < 0.3 ppm < 0.1 ppm Iron < 0.3 ppm < 0.1 ppm